Mar 142015

I usually try to post only finished stuff on the blog, but I’m making an exception to that rule here. I’ve been building quite a lot of Deadzone terrain recently and made a few discoveries that I’d like to share, so here are a few WIP pics and some tips regarding building the Deadzone scenery

Last year, I bought two boxes of Deadzone Scenery Upgrade Pack. I did this to quickly and (fairly) cheaply get some scifi terrain on the table. I quickly noticed the components wouldn’t last long and invested in three more boxes plus a bagged Defence Line (more on that later).



Deadzone Scenery Back


I started building rather quickly, but ran out of steam for one reason or other. The project simmered for almost a year and this last week I’ve spent the evenings clipping and building. Here’s what I have ended up with.

Five walkways, two larger buildings, three 2x2 square ones and three smaller buildings, all with detachable roofs.

Five walkways, two larger buildings, three 2×2 square ones and three smaller buildings, all with detachable roofs. Bottom right shows the left-overs. I also managed to cobble together a few barricades from left-over supports and the low wall thingies.


All in all I’m pretty happy with how the buildings turned out. I would like a few more small “hab cube” buildings and there are a few other buildings I would’ve liked to do. For instance, more two level buildings. When these are all painted and finished I’ll look into that. For now, I’m done with Deadzone terrain – though I did enjoy putting it all together! Now for some tips. Many (or all) of these might be old hat, but they were mostly my own discoveries so I thought I’d pass them on.


Tip 1 – Get more connectors. Now!
When assembling, I soon realized the connectors wouldn’t last. We all know that by now, but for me it was a bit of a surprise. I checked for connector sprues on eBay but couldn’t find any for a decent price. I did however come across the Battlezones: Sci-Fi Defence Line. It came with a connector sprue which isn’t actually needed. Had I bought two of this, I wouldn’t have had to resort to short cuts. Had I bought a pack of four sprues, I probably would have had surplus connectors.

Tip 1. Buy a bag of Defence Line - it includes not only a big lascannon and a little satelite dish, but a full connector sprue!

Defence Line – it includes not only a big lascannon and a little satelite dish, but a full connector sprue! And a defence line, but use that to build fortified watchtowers instead of lame barricades.


 Tip 2 – Glue everything together – but dry-fit and plan first!
It might be tempting to just start building, but try to plan out all the buildings you’re doing so that you don’t end up lacking walls, ceilings or connectors. I laid out my buildings in “exploded diagrams” on my work table and portioned out as few connectors as possible. If I hadn’t done that, I wouldn’t have been able to build all the buildings I made. Also, when you come to the final assembly part – glue everything in place! I used Revell’s plastic glue and it worked a treat on the material.


Tip 3 – Using supports instead of straight connectors.
In the end, you will most likely run out of connectors. Luckily, there are other pieces you can use instead. I used supports instead of straight connectors on most of my walls.

Supports works fine as straight connectors - as do lamp posts. Too bad I didn't get a photo of one. Use your imagination...

Supports works fine as straight connectors – as do lamp posts. Too bad I didn’t get a photo of one. Use your imagination…


Tip 4 – Making straight connectors out of supports.
I ended up needing even more straight connectors than I had, even if I used the supports on exterior walls. The solution was to clip down a few supports into flat straight connectors. These were only used where they wouldn’t be visible, so I didn’t file them or trim them very neatly.

These home made straight connectors were applied on the underside of a roof. I started separating the connector bit from the ends of the support. Finally, I trimmed down the profile. Small clips (and good clippers) are recommended!

These ersatz connectors were applied on the underside of a roof. I first separated the connector from the ends of the support and then clipped off the protruding part from the connector. Small clips (and good clippers) are recommended!


Tip 5 – Removable roofs using struts.
When I started building I immediately decided I didn’t just want to block line of sight with the buildings. I wanted to be able to place objectives inside as well. Who knows – eventually I might end up modeling the interiors of some buildings too. To facilitate this, I made the roofs detachable using trimmed struts. It’s important to remember to trim the connector peg that meets the roof. You don’t want that snug snap-fit, they should only be there to keep the roof from sliding off.

Top row shows the roof on and off, while bottom row shows the use of a regular strut and a modified one. Important: Remember to trim the connector peg that meets the roof. You don't want that snap fit, they should only be there to keep the roof from sliding off.

Top row shows the roof on and off, while bottom row shows the use of a regular strut and a modified one. Also, not the trimmed connector pegs.


Tip 6 – Making corner connectors out of struts.
To not run out of corner connectors, I had to resort to using struts in some cases. This was mostly done where I had forgotten to include corner connectors for attaching an upper level building to the lower level roof, as I didn’t want to risk wasting valuable corner connectors. I simply cut off and trimmed down the strut so only the connector bit was left. It’s a two snip affair, so not very complicated. If the connector will be visible, it can be a good idea to trim it further.

Four ways to cut a strut.

Four ways to cut a strut. Top left is unmodified, top right was a version I ended up never using. Bottom left is what I used on the roof strut support variant above and bottom right is a corner connector made from a strut.


Ersatz corner connectors in use.

Ersatz corner connectors in use.


That’s it for now – I have a few more tips related to construction but I’ll get to that when I show the finished pieces instead.

Jun 202013

Just a quick post to prove that I’m still around. These are a some of the minis I purchased painted a few years ago from Elysium64, that I’ve just recently got around to rebasing. On the left is a Foundry viking of some kind. Not very exciting model, but nicely painted and useful as a skirmish character or in a band of adventurers. He’s being transfixed by the tunes of a faun’s pipe. The satyr is part of the Talisman range of player pawn replacements released by Citadel in 1986 and sculpted by Aly Morrison.

“No, you’re right… I shan’t crack your skull open with my axe. I shall listen to that wonderful pan flute music you’re playing. Righto.”

Still have a few more from the same batch to rebase, they’re really hard to get off their coins and on to my standard size washers. It’s one of my annual goals to have them all sorted out. Speaking of annual goals, it’s soon time to do a half year review. I’ll wait a little while longer as I have a few things in the pipeline that will affect my current tally of painted miniatures, hopefully my current painting subjects will be done in time.

We’re having a bit of a unit painting challenge (for fun) over at the Oldhammer forums and I’m painting my Harboth’s Black Mountain boys for it. The goal is to have a unit finished by the end of July. I picked the Black Mountain boys as they provide a rather easy target while also being dear to me and finally because they cover a rather large hole in my fantasy monster arsenal. I don’t have any standard orcs painted, only the five uruk I painted up as “red orcs”. Whatever that is.

Whoss oall dis den!?

Finally I’m proud to announce that my son Erik have finished his first model! It’s a classic old plastic human Blood Bowl player from the 2nd edition game box. It has been caked in a nice, thick layer of artist’s acrylics applied with a size 12 brush. Next time, I’ll let him use a slightly smaller brush and regular miniature paints instead. Nevertheless, he’s a proud two and a half year old who heartily exclaims that he painted it whenever he gets hold of the miniature. Right now, it’s the driver of a red Lego tractor.

Painty fun time!

Errrrn, eeeerrrrnnnn, eeeeeeeeern!

I have a few more posts prepared for the near future. Some more stuff that I didn’t paint myself, and then some minis that I actually DID paint myself. Recently, too! Oh, the suspense! Could it be more Blood Bowl? Rather likely.

Jul 062012

Yeah, what the hell – Fantasy Battle?! I honestly can’t say what happened – but I picked up WHFB3 a few years ago and read the rules a month ago or so. It got me thinking that I ought to try it sometime. My basing standard doesn’t lend itself well to WHFB, so I started thinking about how I could arrange some cheap forces without too much hassle. I remembered the old 90s plastic single piece clone casts that are quite dull, but if painted properly can look good enough. I have 16 of the dwarfs, I’ve tried to sell them on many occasions but never succeeded. How fortunate! I’ve painted these as fast as possible, which in my case means black primer, base coats (with as few colours as possible) and then completely covered with washes. I then highlight using the base colour, and occasionally a lighter shade of the base colour. I’ll try switching up the base colours between my batches of five, the next five will have another blue for the tunic, and another brown for the boots and shoulderthingamajig.

Attack of the clones!

Here’s a pic of 6 of them. 10 more to go, and I have a unit. If I can (sloooowly, I’ve learned my lessons) gather some more dwarfness I should have about 1000 pts painted up “in no time”. 1000 points don’t make an army, but with 1000 pts worth of dwarfs, 1000 pts worth of men and 1000 pts worth of elves I ought to have enough to make one “good” army. I’ll do the same for orcs, goblins, chaos, skaven and so forth.

There are many sources of this type of models. Here are the few I’ve identified:
Dwarf handweapon – Advanced HeroQuest (hero, champion or similar)
Dwarf twohanded weapon – HeroQuest (another hero or somesuch)
Dwarf handweapon and shield – 90’s plastic warriors boxed sets
Dwarf handweapon and shield – Psychostyrene
Dwarf handweapon and shield – Warhammer Regiments
Dwarf handweapon – Talisman 3rd edition
Dwarf dragon slayer – Talisman 3rd edition, City

I’ll round that out with some of EM4’s quite genious plastic dwarfs from the old Fantasy Warriors boxed set, as they have crossbows and only cost a few pence each.

Finally, I’ve got a WIP pic of a dwarf I’m painting for Adam/thebinmann from LAF. I usually don’t post WIPs like this, but wanted to share the progress with Adam.

Basecoat and shading, but no highlights yet.

Edit: Forgot to update my tally for 2012! With these 6 chaps painted, I’m now at 50 painted – 189 acquired = -140. It’s getting better. Slowly. =) Nothing new for quite some time now, but then again I haven’t painted much either. I’ll try to concentrate on smaller things for a while when I’m done with the dwarfs. Might help me bolster the numbers a bit. Got three models incoming, but more on that when they get here.

Aug 122010

One shieldswap later (and I’m not sure it’s for the better) here’s the full profile for Crazy Macy Sonnenshield.

The model was sculpted by good ol’ Jes Goodwin and released in 1986, I believe. The first mention of it I’ve found is as Gnawa Batter in the 1986 Citadel Journal in the C01 Fighters range. She’s named “Macelady” on the slotta tab, but was also available as Julia McEwman in the Tragedy of McDeath scenario pack. Lovely mini, but the straight legs give her a wonky posture and she’s quite a stiff jointed sculpt. I got the mini together with the previously posted ronin, from LeadAsbestos at LAF.

”Crazy” Macy Sonnenshield – Human Adventurer (54 pts)
Quality 3+, Combat 4. Berserk, Fearless, Capricious.
Little is known of this beautiful but deranged female warrior. She’s as deadly as she’s foul mouthed and short tempered. While viewed with some apprehension and mistrust due to her erratic behaviour, the people of Stillburg have learned to accept her as an occassional resident at the Nag’s Head.

“Oi! What’s this ‘capricious’ malarkey?!” I hear you say. Well, it’s a house rule trait of sorts. It’s a bit of a “Solar powered” rip-off, but instead of being either good or bad – it’s a bit of both which ever way the dice roll.

Capricious (0 pts):
At the start of a game, roll 1D6 for the model and apply the result rolled:
1,2 – Combat -1, Quality -1 (C3,Q3+ is now C2, Q2+)
3,4 – No effect
5,6 – Combat +1, Quality +1 (C3, Q3+ is now C4, Q4+)
I always intended her to be a bit of a loose cannon. She’s capable, but not reliable. After all, she suffered a quite severe blow to the head as a young lass. I even toyed with the idea to paint a white bang in the hair to illustrate that. Decided against it, as I managed to get the hair as I wanted on the first go.

Here she is doing what she loves most – disposing of zombies. Let’s see when she’ll be joining the Stillburg heroes in their adventures.

As a final little something I give you a WIP sneak peek of what’s coming up next.

Jul 292010

I mentioned previously that I celebrated the end of my four weeks of vacation by assembling a few stands of wood. Decided to share some pictures, I’m well satisfied with how they turned out. Magnetized, removable and pretty decent looking. The trees are dirt cheap “value bag” model railroad junk – but they fill their purpose. One day, when I’m in retirement I suppose, I’ll paint the trunks properly.


I’ve also prepared a batch of minis to paint up for the next Stillburg scenario (and then some). A bit unorthodox to share pics of them allready, but I’m really looking forward to painting them and what better motivation than to show them in their unpainted drabness?!

Guess which one I’m currently painting? The first pic is some reinforcements for the undead, while the last two are towns people and adventurers who might join the heroes. All are old Citadel stuff. Details when painted and posted with profiles.

Coming up next; one fully painted mace lady!