Apr 252015

A while ago, I finished this lady. A bit rough in places, as I tried to paint it as fast as possible for the speed painting challenge on the Oldhammer forums. I failed utterly as it took me almost exactly two hours to paint the model.



The paintjob turned out ok, and I really like the sculpt so all in all I’m quite fond of the model. For some reason, I can’t think of any kind of back story though – so screw that. It’s a space lady with a space shooter.

The model is a C3724a Dawleen from the Personalities range, sculpted by Josef Ochman. It’s still available from EM4 if you ask Doug nicely.


She works great as a squad leader for a group of Cybertech Wartechs, so I guess a small squad in the white and yellow scheme is in the cards.

Here are a few shots from the actual painting. Not priming the model in grey was silly, for instance. That added at least 10 minutes of painting.



I haven’t painted much else lately (this was done at the start of the month) but have had the chance to work a little more on my Deadzone terrain. All the structures have been primed (several times over) and washed. I have painted a dark grey on most of the ones needing it too, only have two fence riddled pieces to finish that step on. The last session, I sponged and daubed maybe half of the buildings. It turned out pretty nice, even if they’re starting to look a lot more gribbly than I had initially planned. Here are two comparison shots. After this is done, I’ll hit them with a big-ass drybrush and pick off a few details. I don’t think I’ll be adding coloured bits to the panels, as originally intended.




Apr 132015

Great news everybody – on the first of April, my baby daughter was born! Everything have gone very well and the only thing clouding our happiness is the four year old who is driving us nuts with his constant chattering. He. Simply. Won’t. Stop. Babbling! He’s like the singing bush in Three Amigos!

Emma Rebecka Victoria

Welcome to the world, Emma Rebecka Victoria!


To keep this on topic, I’m happy to say I’ve actually painted a few models recently too! First up is this robot from the not very well known Perry Rhodan range from Hobby Products (of Metal Magic Fantasy and Spacelords fame). It’s a C2141c Gladiator Combat Robot and rather out of print. Some of the Perry Rhodan minis can still be purchased from Ludik Bazaar here.

++// TAKE ONE. MORE. SIR? //++

++// TAKE ONE. MORE. SIR? //++

As I don’t game (or know) Perry Rhodan, ol’ T1M will feature in my Rogue Trader inspired scifi skirmish universe. Off the shelf, he’ll be known as an autonomous bounty hunter robot currently operating in the McKemmler system. There are some who call him… Tim? His origin is unknown, but that it’s a Tandoori Systems M-series (first edition) is pretty obvious. That particular range was decomissioned shortly after release as they had big problems with the persona allocation algorithms. On Tim, it have manifested in a very curteous and well behaved voice and vocabulary of a waiter at a high-class restaurant. It makes a stark, almost comedic, contrast to his murderous demeanour.


In other news, the Deadzone terrain is shaping up nicely. I’ve been struggling a bit with the base coating and probably did a few un-needed coats of spray priming (first black, then gray, then off-white) but now they’re all base coated and have had a first grime-up. Next, I’ll daub them a bit with sponges and flick splatter them with a tooth brush. After that, I’ll drybrush and possibly pick out a few things but most likely they’ll be ready for gaming after two levels of drybrush (heavy off-white, light pure white).

Always nice to sneak off to the garage for a cigar and some terrain painting!

Always nice to sneak off to the garage for a cigar and some terrain painting!


Mar 142015

I usually try to post only finished stuff on the blog, but I’m making an exception to that rule here. I’ve been building quite a lot of Deadzone terrain recently and made a few discoveries that I’d like to share, so here are a few WIP pics and some tips regarding building the Deadzone scenery

Last year, I bought two boxes of Deadzone Scenery Upgrade Pack. I did this to quickly and (fairly) cheaply get some scifi terrain on the table. I quickly noticed the components wouldn’t last long and invested in three more boxes plus a bagged Defence Line (more on that later).



Deadzone Scenery Back


I started building rather quickly, but ran out of steam for one reason or other. The project simmered for almost a year and this last week I’ve spent the evenings clipping and building. Here’s what I have ended up with.

Five walkways, two larger buildings, three 2x2 square ones and three smaller buildings, all with detachable roofs.

Five walkways, two larger buildings, three 2×2 square ones and three smaller buildings, all with detachable roofs. Bottom right shows the left-overs. I also managed to cobble together a few barricades from left-over supports and the low wall thingies.


All in all I’m pretty happy with how the buildings turned out. I would like a few more small “hab cube” buildings and there are a few other buildings I would’ve liked to do. For instance, more two level buildings. When these are all painted and finished I’ll look into that. For now, I’m done with Deadzone terrain – though I did enjoy putting it all together! Now for some tips. Many (or all) of these might be old hat, but they were mostly my own discoveries so I thought I’d pass them on.


Tip 1 – Get more connectors. Now!
When assembling, I soon realized the connectors wouldn’t last. We all know that by now, but for me it was a bit of a surprise. I checked for connector sprues on eBay but couldn’t find any for a decent price. I did however come across the Battlezones: Sci-Fi Defence Line. It came with a connector sprue which isn’t actually needed. Had I bought two of this, I wouldn’t have had to resort to short cuts. Had I bought a pack of four sprues, I probably would have had surplus connectors.

Tip 1. Buy a bag of Defence Line - it includes not only a big lascannon and a little satelite dish, but a full connector sprue!

Defence Line – it includes not only a big lascannon and a little satelite dish, but a full connector sprue! And a defence line, but use that to build fortified watchtowers instead of lame barricades.


 Tip 2 – Glue everything together – but dry-fit and plan first!
It might be tempting to just start building, but try to plan out all the buildings you’re doing so that you don’t end up lacking walls, ceilings or connectors. I laid out my buildings in “exploded diagrams” on my work table and portioned out as few connectors as possible. If I hadn’t done that, I wouldn’t have been able to build all the buildings I made. Also, when you come to the final assembly part – glue everything in place! I used Revell’s plastic glue and it worked a treat on the material.


Tip 3 – Using supports instead of straight connectors.
In the end, you will most likely run out of connectors. Luckily, there are other pieces you can use instead. I used supports instead of straight connectors on most of my walls.

Supports works fine as straight connectors - as do lamp posts. Too bad I didn't get a photo of one. Use your imagination...

Supports works fine as straight connectors – as do lamp posts. Too bad I didn’t get a photo of one. Use your imagination…


Tip 4 – Making straight connectors out of supports.
I ended up needing even more straight connectors than I had, even if I used the supports on exterior walls. The solution was to clip down a few supports into flat straight connectors. These were only used where they wouldn’t be visible, so I didn’t file them or trim them very neatly.

These home made straight connectors were applied on the underside of a roof. I started separating the connector bit from the ends of the support. Finally, I trimmed down the profile. Small clips (and good clippers) are recommended!

These ersatz connectors were applied on the underside of a roof. I first separated the connector from the ends of the support and then clipped off the protruding part from the connector. Small clips (and good clippers) are recommended!


Tip 5 – Removable roofs using struts.
When I started building I immediately decided I didn’t just want to block line of sight with the buildings. I wanted to be able to place objectives inside as well. Who knows – eventually I might end up modeling the interiors of some buildings too. To facilitate this, I made the roofs detachable using trimmed struts. It’s important to remember to trim the connector peg that meets the roof. You don’t want that snug snap-fit, they should only be there to keep the roof from sliding off.

Top row shows the roof on and off, while bottom row shows the use of a regular strut and a modified one. Important: Remember to trim the connector peg that meets the roof. You don't want that snap fit, they should only be there to keep the roof from sliding off.

Top row shows the roof on and off, while bottom row shows the use of a regular strut and a modified one. Also, not the trimmed connector pegs.


Tip 6 – Making corner connectors out of struts.
To not run out of corner connectors, I had to resort to using struts in some cases. This was mostly done where I had forgotten to include corner connectors for attaching an upper level building to the lower level roof, as I didn’t want to risk wasting valuable corner connectors. I simply cut off and trimmed down the strut so only the connector bit was left. It’s a two snip affair, so not very complicated. If the connector will be visible, it can be a good idea to trim it further.

Four ways to cut a strut.

Four ways to cut a strut. Top left is unmodified, top right was a version I ended up never using. Bottom left is what I used on the roof strut support variant above and bottom right is a corner connector made from a strut.


Ersatz corner connectors in use.

Ersatz corner connectors in use.


That’s it for now – I have a few more tips related to construction but I’ll get to that when I show the finished pieces instead.

Mar 062015

It’s been a while since I posted progress on my lizard Raizze models from Lancer Miniatures. I still think they’re a bit rough, but they’re still fun models and I recommend them to anyone! At just a little above a quid a pop they’re as much a bargain as you’ll get these days. Since last time, I’ve painted a few more. Here are the last two – a regular trooper and one with a support weapon of some sort. I think I have 6 or so to go for a full squad, plus another 5 or so for mercenary duties. Probably won’t post more on them until the full squad is done.



And to prove my point from a few posts ago, here’s a shot of the current Raizze force giving three charging war apes what for.


Feb 282015

I finally managed to dislodge my thumb from my arse and got on with painting this dwarf for an online buddy with whom I traded painting service for lead.

Dwarf prospector, painted for thebinmann

Dwarf prospector, painted for thebinmann

It’s yet another dwarf adventurer by the Perry brothers, so old vintage Citadel. I really struggled with getting started on this guy but once I got dug in it nearly painted itself. I must say I’m really happy with how it turned out and I’m a bit sad to see it go.

I said this would be my last commission piece I paint for someone, but I’m afraid I might get suckered in again with another possible offer of some desirable lead. Sheesh, I’m like a magpie with lead. Just can’t say no.

Here’s a photo of the guy above together with his mate, fighting off a few vicious tomb guardians.