Aug 292012

Finally finished up my unit of plastic clone dwarfs, from the early 90s. They look fine, but definitely miss a shield or sixteen. If anyone reading this can help out with the classic shields give me a holler!


My main goal was to paint them as fast as possible, to get a servicable table top paintjob. I might have overdone it a bit, as I did base coat, wash, base coat again and then highlight. I think the problem lies with the bases being finished last. The next batch of cheap plastics I paint up, I’ll do the bases after I’ve done the base coats on the minis. That way they might look finished earlier, say after a wash and a single touchup/highlight. Remember, I’m not aiming for the same level as on my metal guys. These are all about “army level” and I think I have to lower my ambitions a little if I ever want to finish any of the planned armies.

The first six, as previously seen.

They were painted in three batches. On the first six I used old Citadel Enchanted Blue for the coats. Thought they looked a bit too samey, so for the next five I planned to use Citadel Foundation Mordian Blue. I also decided to add partitions in Bleached Bone too and I must say it did wonders for the unit as a whole. I couldn’t be arsed going back and add some white to the first batch I did, but any more dwarfs I paint will follow the same philosophy.

Batch two!

The last five I used Citadel Ultramarine Blue on. I also alternated the boot and err… “collar” colour between batches, using either Vallejo Cobra Leather, Citadel Foundation Khemri Brown or Vallejo Earth as base. I alternated the skin colour too, using Citadel Dwarf Flesh on batch one and three, while the second batch got Citadel Foundation Tallarn Flesh.

Final five!

So, with these chaps out of the way I’m contemplating what to do next. Will try to get stuck in with the Doom Forgers as soon as possible. Also have some more plastics incoming, as well as the Grenadier plastics I got a while back. I think I’ll try to finish my human Blood Bowl team (based on 2nd edition chaotics and Phil Lewis’ Chaos Cup models) before I do any more Dungeon Bowl. Before anything else, I really ought to finish up some barriers for the next scenario of Stillburg though.

Grand total for 2012 is now 62 painted – 220 acquired = -158. Managed to clear my goal of one model per week, and I have plenty of weeks to spare yet! Here’s a final pic comparing the three different batches.

Comparison of the three batches. First in the centre, second to the right and third to the left. Or maybe the other way around. Who gives a damn?

  8 Responses to “More WHFB dwarf warriors”

  1. Very smart – should pass muster for all but the harshest Drill Sergeant!

  2. Cheers! They look more than a little daft when ranked up, but throw in a standard (probably the guy in your parcel with a weapon snip), a leader (the dwarf from Hero Quest for instance) and a musician and it might look better. I’ll try to stay clear of metals all together. Shouldn’t be too much problem converting one of these into a drummer. ;)

  3. Dwarfs look great! Had those same models quite a while ago myself.

    Just wanted to bring something to your attention since I know you are a Bones KickStarter backer. Unfortunately, when I used Krylon Matte Finish on a few previously released Bones of mine it seems to make them glossy and sticky after a few days to a week. Seems to be some sort of chemical reaction. I’m not sure what kind of varnish you use on your figures but you should definitely test them out before painting up an awesome figure only to have it ruined by varnish!

    • Why thank you! =)

      Regarding varnish, I must confess I’m not much of a varnisher. Which irks me, as I hate chipped paint. I’ve never found the ultimate solution to varnishing. =/ So far, I’ve used an old brush on varnish from Prince August which always got slightly tinted by any wash used on the model. That was in the 90s though. Both washes and varnish have come a long way since then. I picked up some spray varnish from a hardware store. They have worked pretty well, but I had some problems with the last can misting. The models recovered ,but show trace of it. I have also experienced the tacky plastics you describe on board game minis I’ve painted and varnished.

      Regardng the tacky varnish, I think it might have something to do with either air humidity or the time elapsed between gloss and matte layer. When I’ve been a good boy and allowed my gloss varnish to dry for a week or so, the matte layer have gone on like a dream. When I’ve been rushed I have had less than stellar results.

      • I’ve had good results with Vallejo brush on matt varnish – just a bit lazy putting it on to finished minis so I’ve got a bit of a backlog that want a coat. The gloss seems good to for tongues and large eyeballs and the like – shiny, shiny!

        • Yeah, I’m switching to brush on for convenience and to eliminate the frosting issue. Also, if I can’t be arsed to do a full coat on a mini after I’ve spent hours painting it then I deserve to have dented and dinged minis. =) Thanks for the tip, I’ll get some. Are they available in larger bottles than their regular droppers?

      • Well, the varnish problem has only been encountered with the Bones minis. Metal guys and plastics (GW plastics for instnace) have been good to me. Seems a bit strange, maybe the polymer isn’t varnish friendly. Who knows!

  4. Thats a nice paint job on some ok figures. The pose makes them look a bit like a chorus from a Warhammer West End production :) Adding the Heroquest hero would definitely help, although he might be a little small in comparison with those portly 90s guys IIRC. The WHQ gus would be a better fit stylistically Id say.

    I might have some suitable shields. I bought a lot of the old Marauder Dark elf circular shield sprues back in the early nineties for a project that never happened, but they are not terribly dwarf looking. I think that I have a few small circular “wooden” ones. Email me if those are the sorts of things that you are looking for.

    I had one too many spray varnish mishaps so I quit using that stuff altogether. That said, a light coat of matt spray varnish on the cheap plastic used on some boardgame miniatures *before* painting can help with paint adhesion.

    I had problems with Vallejo dropper bottle varnishes actually. The matt wasnt quite matt enough and multiple coats caused a milky/cloudy build up in the recesses of the model. Far from ideal.

    I have been using Windsor & Newton matt varnish for a couple of years now, after being recommended it on LAF. I am unsure as to how well it protects really, but it does give a consistent finish at least. Easily obtained too.

    Looking forward to the All-Stars :)

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